Tokyo: October 1, 2011

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The Yanasen section of Tokyo is composed of the Nezu and Yanaka districts. These old-fashioned neighborhoods — some of the most tranquil in the whole of metropolitan Tokyo — are light-years away from the hustle and bustle of modern Japan. Renowned for their traditional look and feel, they harken back to far-less-complex patterns of Japanese life.

I took the Yamanote Line north to Nippori station and walked east up the hill to begin my rambling. 

Fires had swept through Edo (Tokyo) back in the seventeenth century, and in the aftermath many temples were moved to this area because of its higher elevation. I guess they knew what they were doing, because many of the relocated temples are still standing today.

It felt a little like being in one of Mifune's films, maybe Yojimbo. I mean, the place is a lot neater than it was in the films, but the same building patterns appear over and over again. Within a couple of blocks, I had encountered several temples and cemeteries.

Many of the area's cemeteries are overflowing with an abundance of religious statuary. Some of the stone effigies wear knitted skull-caps that some devoted parishioners have provided so that the statues might have a more comfortable winter as they stare over the fence at the growing encroachment of modern Tokyo.

The streets were mostly empty. I saw only a few individuals and families making their pilgrimage to the grave of a loved to deposit some token of remembrance.

Farther on, I chanced upon a section of a one-story commercial building that looked like it could have been there for at least a few centuries.

The textural ambience of the area was quite compelling.

Yanaka Ginza is the area's main shopping street. It is the total antithesis of the modern Tokyo mall. Much like the craftsman section of Asakusa, the street is lined with small, family-owned businesses selling everything from rice crackers to wooden clogs to custom tea blends. This is a unique experience, so if you ever get a chance to visit, don't be afraid to explore.

After spending the morning in this timeless area, I had to make a 180-degree mind adjustment to contemplate a return visit to "Electric City."

It was mid-afternoon when I arrived at Akihabara station. The area had a lot more buzz than the first time I visited. Everyone must have been taking a late lunch, because the streets were packed and restaurant hawkers were everywhere. Most were fronting for "Maid Cafes," but some were dressed as Geishas, and the one girl I got to pose for me was dressed as either a pirate or a gypsy, so I'm not sure what kind of place she was working for.

This area is all about technology and the myths that surround it. These optimistic fans of the future hope to role-play themselves into a better tomorrow, not unlike many in America's Millennial Generation. I hope it works out for them, but I have my doubts.

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