Monday, July 11, 2011

HONG KONG SCORE CARD 2011







HONG KONG OVERALL RATING
Hong Kong is a wonderfully complex megalopolis on the upswing. Jam packed with optimism, greed, and a belief that tomorrow can only get better. It is an exciting place to be, if only as a  bystander. 

PEOPLE
For the most part, I found everyone to be friendly and helpful. But there is an undercurrent of mercantile professionalism that seems to underly every personal interaction. It's like: "If you don't know what you want, step aside; the guy behind you does." 

LODGING: HOLIDAY INN GOLDEN MILE
I chose that hotel because of its location. I read several reviews that the hotel was in desperate need of refurbishment. That's not what I found. My room was well appointed, of a fair sized (especially for Hong Kong), with all the amenities that one would expect. Room service was OK but I'd pass on the restaurants. I spent 10 days there very happily.

THE PEAK
In good weather the Peak is an "OK" half-day trip. Up top it's nothing like I imagined after reading the guide book descriptions. A mall is a mall, even on top of Hong Kong's tallest hill. In the public area you do get the views of Hong Kong and Kowloon that grace the pages of all the tourist literature. I've heard others rave about the experience, but for me it was a real let down.

MACAU
I loved this city and highly recommend it to everyone. There was something about its old world charm that totally captivated me. I would have loved better weather and a longer stay, but the glimpse I got was really intriguing. It's the yin to Hong Kong's yang. 

KOWLOON
Kowloon is a shopper's paradise but, as in any big city, buyer beware. You need to be on your toes and make sure you're getting what you paid for. After a purchase, never let the item out of your sight, not even to be wrapped or bagged. These merchants are too good at sleight of hand. And always remember to get a written receipt. 

STAR FERRY
It's not as glamours as it once was, nothing like the Hollywood movies of the 50s and 60s. But it is a refreshing outing, offering an incomparable view of Hong Kong Island in a nostalgic frame of reference. Commercially it's been a losing proposition for quite a while, but the City Fathers keep it running as a historic and tourist attraction. After all, what would a visit to Hong Kong be without a ride on the ferry, even if Suzy Wong never shows up. 

Hollywood Road
Hollywood Road is an antiquer's heaven. The stores that front the road have the most amazing objects you can imagine. The only problem, other than their astronomical price, is that it's impossible for a lay person to tell if it's two thousand years old or made last week. If you become enamored, you need to enlist the aid of an expert before you shell out the big bucks.

Wong Tai Sin Temple
Located in the northeast corner of Kowloon, this Taoist temple is famous throughout China and Southeast Asia for its core of soothsayers' forecasting abilities. Despite the crush of people, it's worth while standing in line to get your turn at shaking out the Fortune Stick. Down on the fortune teller's level, pick your reader wisely. They will interpret your numbers for a nominal sum and read your palms for an additional charge that is NOT a nominal sum. 

Temple Street Night Market
I was totally disappointed. Just an average swap meet, like you'd see anywhere in LA. A lot of t-shirts and other low-end souvenirs; nothing that peaked my interest. 

OCTOPUS CARD
The Octopus Card is a godsend for travelers. I can't recommend it highly enough. The ease by which it expedites your transactions throughout Hong Kong and the surrounding areas can't be over stated.  I wish every major city had a similar program. 
See <http://www.octopus.com.hk> for current costs.

Bespoken Suit
Bespoke Tailors are an institution in Hong Kong. Many of these establishments have been around for over a hundred years and have a long tradition of service. Everywhere you turn there is another one promising to fit you perfectly for next to nothing.

From my experience I've learned that the process takes much longer than I expected (if I had known how long, I would have passed). Second, I needed to be much better informed. If you are going to avail yourself of this service do some research, know what you want (style, fit, material, etc.) and what you don't want. Most importantly, stick to your guns if you feel that you are not getting what you are paying for. Remember: THE SUIT IS BEING MADE TO FIT YOU, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND!

Below: Me at home, besuited.        Photo: ©2011 James Payne


Friday, July 8, 2011

Hong Kong: February 25-26, 2011



(Tip: Click on photos to see a larger version, or go to: www.ronalddunlapphotography.com.)

It's hard to believe that this is my last full day in Hong Kong. Time has just seemed to streak by. In the short time I've been here, I have become quite fond of the place, even with its rough edges of inequality.







Hong Kong is a spectacular (and in spots exquisite) city of "no-holds-barred" commerce. On the streets that crisscross this megalopolis, wealth seems to drip from the shabby building facades with their giant ads that glamorize the accoutrements of status. I think it would be hard to find another spot on earth with more neon signs advertising Rolex or other status symbols of time-keeping.




Since I had an appointment with "my tailor" at 11, I was going to use the morning to start my packing ritual. First, I ran over to the 7-Eleven, grabbed a few appropriate breakfast treats, and returned to my room to figure out how to get all my stuff into just one bag.

My belongings were strewn all over the place when the maid knocked. I'm normally out of the room by 8:30, and the other guest on my floor was a late riser, so the household staff had my room at the top of their schedule. Smiling, I told her I was running late and that I’d be out by 10:30. After closing the door, I continued to debate what I should put where.




Like many other successful travelers, I live by the motto "to be prompt is to survive." After walking over the few blocks to Cameron Road, I loitered down the block from Raja Fashions till just before 11 and got to the front door just as the minute hand was plumb. A phalanx of smiling tailors (really sales guys) were there to welcome me and (I believe) brow-beat me if I made a fuss.

I only had on a t-shirt under my coat, so I requested one of the collared shirts that they had made for me.

INFO: For a correct fitting, you need to be wearing the correct foundation garments (shirt, tie, undershirt, shorts, etc.). Remember, the suit is being made to fit you, not the other way around.


I put on the shirt and tie, then tried on the jacket. Thank the gods, it fit. The sales staff seemed more than relieved, and complimented me on my new professional appearance. As they began to package up my purchases, I counted out my traveler’s checks. I have had these AmEx checks for at least four or five years, so I had decided it was time to use them up, anywhere that would take them. At the door, I turned and grabbed a couple of shots of the owner and shop.

INFO: Most merchants, outside of the major hotels, are reluctant or else refuse to take anything but cash. If you claim to only have plastic, they will just point down the street to an ATM and ask you to go get cash. Some merchants, if their backs are up against the wall, will except a MasterCard/Visa card but boost the price by 2-3%. The few merchants that would even consider an American Express card wanted an extra 7% for handling. So remember, "cash is king."

INFO: There is no sales tax (as of now) in Hong Kong.


My suit and shirts came in a black cloth garment bag that was too flimsy to survive an 11-hour passage in the baggage compartment. On my way back to the hotel, I came upon a luggage store and presented my problem to the owner. He showed me a large two-suit suitcase, but after seeing my horror at its size, he recommended what he called a high-tech garment bag. It was constructed to negotiate the altitude and freezing temperatures of the plane's hull without a build-up of condensation. He assured me that my suit would arrive in perfect condition. I smiled, knowing that he knew that if his guarantee proved to be faulty he'd be over 7,000 miles away, laughing with my HKD 200 in his pocket.

I returned to my room and left my new suit and bag on the bed. I wanted to get back out on the streets for a last look at the city. Before leaving, I wedged my Powerbook, camera, data cards, and lens into the room safe. I wanted to walk around and take in the city, without having to frame it up through the view finder. The world is much more flawed when not seen through the camera. Just the act of framing up a shot seems to dilute a lot of visual chaos. It gives the scene a reference that somehow ties into man's need for order.




I rode the Star Ferry back to Honk Kong Island, then walked over to Connaught Road and caught a trolley heading east. I rode for about 20 minutes, then reversed the process and headed back west. Back at Central, I took the subway to Kowloon.

Back at the hotel, I stopped by the desk to settle my bill. I would just need to take care of my miscellaneous expenses (room service, laundry, etc.), since the room was already paid for by Priceline.

I needed to get a little rest tonight. I had to be up at 2 a.m. and off to the airport at 4. I called room service and ordered dinner (saying that I needed to pay cash). While I waited, I laid out what I was going to wear on the plane, transferred my suit and shirts to the new "high-tech" garment bag, and finished packing. My spaghetti arrived, and I enjoyed a leisurely dinner in bed watching some Chinese game show.

I put the dishes out in the hall and switched off everything. It seemed like I had just dozed off when the alarm went off. It was 2 a.m. I dragged my ass out of the warm covers and opened the refrigerator. I drank down some cold caffeine in Coke form and gobbled down some cold, slightly damp pastry.

By 3, I was dressed and packed. I searched the room thoroughly to make sure I wasn't leaving anything behind, then locked my bags and sat on the bed. I double-checked that I had my ticket, passport, and enough Hong Kong currency to pay for the taxi ride to the airport and a little tipping on the way out. I was set to go with 25 minutes to spare.


At five minutes before 4, I made one final sweep of the room, then opened the door. I rolled my bags out into and down the hall to the elevator landing. The lobby was empty except for one of the hotel staff behind the concierge desk. As I rolled up with my bags, he picked up the phone and before you could say Jack Sprat, someone appeared behind the reception desk. I handed over my room card key and said I'd settled the bill last night. She smiled and asked if I'd like anything from the mini-bar. I said no, and she printed out my final receipt and wished me a safe trip.

A taxi pulled up as I exited through the double doors into the cool of the morning. After the last passenger got his receipt, I loaded my bags and got in. The roads were empty except for the fog that obscured my view. The ride took just under 30 minutes and cost HKD 220 plus a HKD 30 surcharge for crossing a toll bridge. (HKD 250 = $32.13 US.)

The terminal looked deserted, and it pretty much was. Just past the entry ramp, there was a small seating area crammed with over-nighting passengers. I looked, but there wasn't an empty seat to be found. I looked around a bit till I found the departure board and waited till it cycled though to English. After looking through all the Delta departures, I couldn't find one for Los Angeles. It took several cycles for me to realize that I should be looking for Tokyo, not L.A.



There it was, DL 638, leaving from Gate 27. The check-in desk was closed till 6 a.m. (so much for the three hours in advance check-in for international flights rule). About 5:20, people started queuing up. I was about twentieth in line. I checked my one large bag and made sure that they placed my garment bag into one of their protective bins. From there I made it through security and customs and into the passenger waiting area.

The waiting area was nice, with free wi-fi, several eating establishments, including McDonalds, and a cornucopia of different nationalities vying for service. I had an Egg McMuffin and a large Diet Coke. After my repast, I took the long walk down to Gate 27.


It was a half-hour wait until Delta announced they would begin to board at 7:10. Because I was in Zone 4, I wouldn't see 31H for a while. When I finally got to my seat, I was lucky enough to find overhead bin space to secure my two carry-ons. Relieved, I flopped down in my aisle seat and waited for the plane to rumble down the runway.


I had an uneventful stopover in Tokyo and an unremarkable flight back to Los Angeles.

The skies were overcast and rainy when we landed in L.A. It looked very similar to my first day in Hong Kong. It was a real pisser; I'd brought the bad weather home with me. I felt like crawling into bed and staying there until it got warm again or I came up with an idea for my next trip.